Left Luggage

`Puedo viajar sin nada’, Omar García Obregón, Poetry Centre, Royal Festival Hall, South Bank Centre, London, 30 November 2008

December 2, 2008 · 1 Comment

`I am quite capable of travelling with nothing.’ Indeed, the only possessions Omar took with him when he left Cuba were the clothes on his back. He is accustomed to the experience of starting afresh on a blank page.

`When I came to London some 17 years ago, it was with one suitcase. That suitcase became my home, my apartment, my library. I still permit myself the luxury of carrying several books with me when I travel. My literary research takes me around the world. As I travel, my suitcase becomes a portable archive of the materials I collect along the way. It also becomes increasingly heavy.’

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`“J.D.P.”: Heading Home with the Suitcase’, Omar García Obregón, 4 October 2008

October 12, 2008 · 1 Comment


`“J.D.P.”: Heading Home with the Suitcase’
(Omar García Obregón)

On the fourth of October 2008, at 11 o’clock in the morning, I arranged a meeting in the centre of London with John D. Perivolaris (J.D.P.), grandson of the late captain of the Greek merchant navy with whom he shares a name and birthday. John is the current owner of the suitcase that I will keep for about a month and which bears the monogram of his grandfather: J.D.P. The encounter stretched back in time like an inventory since I hadn’t seen John for years. Our chat was followed by a visit to The Photographers’ Gallery to see the British artist Dryden Goodwin’s latest exhibition, entitled Cast. Accompanied by John, who is a professional photographer, I was in a privileged position as I stood before the images, noticing details of craftsmanship the untrained eye takes for granted. The suitcase also began its journey with us through the centre of London. We persevered in our vain attempt to locate an English translation of the work of the excellent Afghan poet Partaw Naderi, whom I had the opportunity of meeting thanks to the London poet and translator Sarah Maguire and the Poetry Translation Centre at SOAS. Partaw Naderi was not in my thoughts today when I left home, but John Perivolaris mentioned him to me after seeing one of his poems in Tube, as part of the Poems on the Underground project (http://tinyurl.com/3ghran). Naderi was now a growing presence in mind, as we failed in our quest to find his poetry. This was hardly surprising, since it is often only through the intervention of a miracle that one can find poetry anywhere, at a time when the market seems convinced that it is only narrative that sells. Nevertheless, we already knew that it is impossible to buy what is not for sale, and there you have the proverbial dog chasing its own tail. So it was that two disappointed buyers of poetry left Foyles bookshop empty-handed. On the way home I remembered that poem entitled `The Mirror’, written in Kabul by Partaw Naderi in 1989, and translated by Sarah Maguire and Yama Yari (© The Poetry Translation Centre, 2005, 2008):

I have spent a lifetime in the mirrors of exile
busy absorbing my reflection
Listen –
I come from the unending conflicts of wisdom
I have grasped the meaning of nothingness

I had always wanted to make these lines my own, as I have spent most of my life in the mirrors of exile. Until now (a very important `until now’, since there are always turning points that lead us blindly into the unknown) I have lived in London more than anywhere else. In fact, Cuba, and Santa Clara in particular, the location of my childhood, has ended up being the place where I have spent the least time, and whose passport I have never possessed. Naderi leads me to think about that absorption of reflections that preoccupy our exile, an exile that takes a thousand forms, like a partially severed planarian, that family of flatworms whose segments regenerate however many ways they are cut. This is one of the metaphors I most frequently use to represent the lacerations that line our exit from the nation that anticipates our birth with a concept of itself as a people which, many times, as in my case, is inculcated in one by the very system in which they grow up. Yet, for me, nothingness is never emptiness. Rather, it is everything, as it was for one of my favourite poets, José Ángel Valente, to whom I dedicated several years of critical work as I prepared my first doctoral thesis, which focussed on his work. In my case, that sense of totality allows one to grasp the conflicts of so many comunities in exile, diaspora, cushioned cosmopolitanism, and all those other terms that define us through absorption in the mirrors of all those nations through which we pass, as citizens, or in other, more temporary, guises.

Heading home with this suitcase which has already made so many international journeys, including to Cuba and Argentina, in the hands of John’s grandfather, father, Dimitri, I feel that I have been entrusted with an object of which I must take care. On a cloudy, overcast autumn day in London, my main worry was that I would be caught in a shower while I walked the last mile or so home through the surrounding wood. While I was completely lost in my thoughts, the suitcase had transformed itself into a metaphor of other things, of journeys I had taken or planned, of what I had never had and of what I have now. I should explain myself: my father was both an isleño (a Canarian from La Palma) and an aplatanado, in other words, he not only settled in Cuba but he had adopted that other island as his own country during the Franco period. Moreover, I believe that if he had arrived with any sort of suitcase he must have misplaced it around the time of the revolution (a much misused term) since there was no trace of such a thing at the time I was born. My childhood passed without suitcases nor journeys beyond the coastline of the island, over whose entire length I was certainly able to roam, without suitcases, but instead with whatever bags or holdalls were necessary within the limits of what was or wasn’t available. When I was five the first suitcase arrived thanks to Raúl Torre, a cigar maker who knew carpentry, who was a friend of my father. Raúl made up a wooden suitcase with strong enough fastenings so that everything could be stored securely for the 45 days my sister would spend away from home while attending camp for the first time. Later, I would inherit that same suitcase to attend two similar camps, firstly to work on the tobacco vegas in the centre of the island, near Baez, and then cutting sugarcane, in Jutiero. Meanwhile, my parents had had another wooden suitcase made for me, this time with a padlock, where I could keep my books, as I have always been fussy in this regard. That suitcase ended up storing the treasures of that time: a large illustrated book of verses by Alfonso Sastre, whom much later, as a researcher of theatre and censorship, I would rediscover in another context; booklets about the exploits of the heroes and martyrs of the country’s independence, and the subsequent political drama I now closely followed, more so than ever after a brush with politics caused by ignorance, since we avoided the subject at home so as not to put our foot in it. This had its disadvantages, like the time, at the beginning of the school year, when Belkis Caballero rounded on me in the middle of a lesson taught by my second-grade teacher, Olga, asking me if I was a worm or a communist. I demonstrated my great ignorance by saying quietly that, as I did not know what type of animal a communist was, I would therefore choose to be a worm, if only to choose something. The reaction was such that Belkis fed me to the lions, with the whole class seemingly in the know apart from me. The schoolmistress saved from a sticky situation, for which I am still grateful, and from that moment I resolved to stock up on political texts that would enable me to inform myself on what I had to be, on what was permitted. Consequently, that suitcase was transformed into a political source of unequivocal information. Less dramatically, the work of the naturalist Carlos de la Torre also found a place there, my father being a keen amateur naturalist himself. And, outside the confines of the suitcase, there was evidence around the house of his literary tastes: Galdós, with his National Episodes, and Blasco Ibáñez, among others, alongside the books of science and the grammatical sources of knowledge. The moment  Belkis posed her question to me marked key changes in the wider world. Days later, in 1973, began the political transformation of Chile, whose repercussions were so great in Cuba. Subsequently, after uncaging the birds at my cousins’ house, prompted as I was by the political imprisonment of another cousin since 1968, my motto would be `Free Luis Corvalán’ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luis_Corvalan). Indeed, the Soviet campaign for his release had been launched in Cuba, leading, in 1976, to his exchange with the Soviet political dissident, Vladimir Bukovsky (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vladimir_Bukovsky). The suitcase was then transformed into an archive of historical materials relating to Leftist international politics (another useless metaphor, unless we are able to define the term every time we use it; nevertheless, on this occasion I believe it is comprehensible), which were the only publications that were available to me at the time.

This suitcase, belonging to J.D.P., previously to his father and grandfather, sailors both, and which even travelled to my country, has transported me back to childhood journeys, to the absence of traveling suitcases, and to the suitcase as a place where we keep some of our most valuable possessions when we undertake journey. Curiously, this suitcase also transports me to what was left behind when the moment of my departure arrived, in 1980. Leaving Mariel for Key West across the maritime bridge between the two, taking a suitcase with me was an impossibility. It was a moment in which the nation was divided between those of us who were leaving, `citizens’, and the `comrades’ who stayed behind. Many of those who left with me have now joined other `citizens’ of countless countries. The courses of their journeys have been diverse, because exile is not homogeneous nor are the lacerations suffered as part of the transcultural processes of emigration the same for everyone. Equally so with mass exoduses, as in my case, when more than 125,000 people leave by the same route, using the same means, by sea, after acts of repudiation (during eggs were thrown at us, at the price of ten for a peso, exempt from rationing restrictions). It was the farewell granted us by those who were staying behind, in return for the sin of dissent or for the betrayal of leaving the country, even though it is the individual stories that fill the gaps of history. My family and I left the island with only the clothes on our back and without papers, our identity cards having been confiscated. We had reached the point where we would have to start anew, without suitcases, but carrying a lifetime’s baggage inside.

The next time I needed a suitcase was in Miami, when I bought a luggage set by installments for a trip to the Middle East, as part of an exchange programme with Israel. The first Lebanese war, in 1982, along with my refugee status, put paid to my plans. I put those same suitcases to use for the first time in 1989, on a trip to Spain, a country my father was revisiting after 36 years. It is these and other images that I am revisiting as I set out with J.D.P.’s suitcase by my side.

Text © Omar García-Obregón, 2008
Translation © John Perivolaris, 2008

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JDP’s Suitcase, Hanger Lane Underground Station, West London, 4 October 2008

October 12, 2008 · Leave a Comment


 

Hola Omar,

I don’t know how to thank you for such a moving text apart from setting out to translate it. It seems to me that this will involve a perpetual return journey between the `over there’ of our autobiographical, or inherited, histories and the present. Between your text and its translation stretches a navigation chart between our fathers’, and my grandfather’s, Cuba and a London full of suitcases carried along by the human currents that intersect in its labyrinth.

Un abrazo,

John

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JDP’s Suitcase, Hanger Lane Underground Station, West London, 4 October 2008

October 12, 2008 · Leave a Comment


Hola Omar:

No sé cómo agradecerte el obsequio de tu texto tan conmovedor (`”J. D. P.”: Rumbo a casa con la maleta’) aparte de zarpar traduciéndolo. Me parece que nos supone un viaje perpetuo entre el allá de nuestro pasado autobiográfico, o heredado, y acá. Entre tu texto y la traducción una carta de navegación entre la Cuba de nuestros padres y de mi abuelo y un Londres lleno de maletas llevadas por las corrientes humanas que se entrecruzan en su laberinto.

Un abrazo,

John

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`“J.D.P.”: Rumbo a casa con la maleta’, Omar García-Obregón, 4 de octubre de 2008

October 11, 2008 · 3 Comments


“J.D.P.”: Rumbo a casa con la maleta
(Omar García-Obregón)

El 4 de octubre de 2008 a las 11 de la mañana fijé en el centro de Londres un encuentro con John D. Perivolaris (J.D.P.), nieto del difunto capitán de la marina mercante de Grecia con quien comparte su nombre y día de nacimiento, y actual dueño de la maleta que permanecerá conmigo por espacio de un mes, más o menos, y que lleva el monograma de su abuelo: J.D.P. Este encuentro se extendió por un recuento en el tiempo, pues hacía años que no veía a John. La charla fue seguida de una visita a The Photographer’s Gallery para ver la exposición fotográfica titulada `Cast’, del artista británico Dryden Goodwin. El encuentro con la fotografía acompañado de un fotógrafo profesional, como lo es John, siempre hace ver los detalles de elaboración que el ojo inepto da por sentado. Fue un privilegio. El viaje por el centro de Londres comenzaba también en compañía de una maleta. Seguimos hacia un intento infructuoso por conseguir en inglés la poesía del excelente poeta afgano Partaw Naderi, a quien había tenido la oportunidad de conocer gracias a la poeta y traductora londinense Sarah Maguire y al Poetry Translation Centre de SOAS. Hoy no pensaba en Partaw Naderi cuando salí de casa, pero John Perivolaris me lo mencionó tras ver un poema de él en el metro, parte de Poems on the Underground. Sí pensé más en Naderi al no encontrar su poesía, cosa que tampoco me sorprendió, pues a veces es un milagro encontrar la poesía en cualquier parte, en momentos en que el mercado parece convencido de que sólo la narrativa vende, pero ya sabemos que es imposible comprar lo que no se oferta y ahí reside la pescadilla que se muerde la cola. Y así, dos posibles compradores de poesía salían de la librería Foyles sin nada. De camino a casa recordé ese poema titulado `El espejo’, que escribiera Partaw Naderi en Kabul en 1989, que ya aparece en traducción al inglés en el centro de la School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS) y que en español diría más o menos así:

He pasado una vida en los espejos del exilio
Ocupado absorbiendo mi reflejo
Escucha
Vengo de los interminables conflictos de la sabiduría
He captado el significado de la nada

Siempre hubiera querido hacer mías esas líneas, pues la mayor parte la he pasado en los espejos del exilio. Hasta ahora (un hasta ahora muy importante, pues siempre hay brechas que no sabemos adonde nos pueden llevar) he vivido más en Londres que en cualquier otro sitio. De hecho, Cuba, y Santa Clara en concreto, el lugar de mi infancia, ha pasado a ser el sitio donde menos he vivido y cuyo pasaporte nunca he tenido. Naderi me hace pensar en esa absorción de reflejos que nos ocupan en exilio, en un exilio que se define de mil formas, como una planaria mal cortada, ese gusano plano que se regenera según sus cortes y que tanto me gusta usar como metáfora de los cortes de salida de la nación que nos ve nacer después de haber adquirido un concepto de nación, de pueblo, que muchas veces, como en mi caso, viene inculcado por el sistema en que crecí. Para mí, la nada tampoco es el vacío, sino el todo, como lo fuera para uno de mis poetas favoritos, José Ángel Valente, a quien dediqué varios años de trabajo crítico, mientras preparaba mi primera tesis doctoral, que fue sobre su obra. Ese todo, en mi caso, puede captar los conflictos de tantas comunidades de exilio, diáspora, exilio de terciopelo, entre tantas otras definiciones que nos van definiendo por absorción de reflejos en los espejos de las naciones por las que pasamos, como ciudadanos o simples transeúntes.

De camino a casa con esta maleta que ya tiene tantos viajes internacionales, incluso por Cuba y Argentina, tanto en manos del abuelo de John, también J.D.P., como de su padre Dimitri, me siento en posesión de un objeto que se me ha confiado y que debo cuidar con precaución. En un día nublado y casi lluvioso de otoño londinense, mi mayor preocupación era que lloviera en el trayecto que me disponía a hacer de un par de kilómetros a pie hasta llegar a casa, mientras atravesaba el bosque que me rodea. Completamente ensimismado, la maleta se había convertido en una metáfora de otras cosas, de viajes logrados y no logrados, de lo que no tenía y de lo que tengo. Me explico: mi padre era un isleño (canario de La Palma) aplatanado, es decir, que se había quedado en Cuba, y había acogido a esa otra isla como su propio país en tiempos de Franco, y creo que si llegó con alguna maleta la debe de haber perdido para la época revolucionaria (término tan mal empleado) pues nada había en la época en que yo nací. Mi infancia transcurrió sin maletas ni viajes allende los contornos de la isla, que sí pude recorrer, pero sin maletas sino con bolsas, maletines y lo que se prestara para la ocasión, dentro de los límites de lo que había y de lo que faltaba. La primera maleta llegó gracias a Raúl Torre, un tabaquero que sabía de carpintería, que era amigo de mi padre. Raúl preparó una maleta de madera, con las puntillas necesarias para cerrar bien todo lo que en ella se iba a almacenar durante 45 días durante la primera escuela al campo a la que asistiría mi hermana cuando yo tenía 5 años. Luego yo heredaría esa maleta, para las dos escuelas al campo a las que fui, primero a trabajar en las vegas de tabaco del centro de la isla, cerca de Baez, y luego a sembrar caña, en Jutiero, pero mientras tanto mis padres me habían hecho otra maleta de madera para guardar mis libros con candado, pues siempre fui celoso con respecto a mis libros. Esa maleta pasó a guardar los tesoros de entonces: un libro grande con dibujos que llevaba coplas de Alfonso Sastre, a quien luego, ya como investigador de teatro y censura, estudiaría y descubriría en otro contexto; los folletos de héroes y mártires de la independencia del país, y el historial político que seguía, sobre todo tras un breve encuentro con la política a través del desconocimiento, pues para que no metiéramos la pata la política en casa se había convertido en tema tabú, lo cual tuvo también sus contratiempos cuando Belkis Caballero en la clase de Olga, mi maestra de segundo grado, se dio la vuelta en plena clase, al comienzo del curso, para preguntarme si era gusano o comunista. En voz baja mostré mi gran ignorancia al decir que no sabía qué animal era el comunista, y que entonces escogería al gusano, sólo por escoger algo. El estruendo fue tal que Belkis lo hizo público y toda la clase parecía saber, menos yo. La maestra me salvó del entuerto, cosa que hasta hoy le agradezco, y de inmediato pasé a abastecerme de textos políticos para informarme de lo que tenía que ser, de lo que estaba permitido. Así esa maleta pasó a convertirse en fuente política de información unívoca. En menor escala entraba lo del naturalista Carlos de la Torre, ya que mi padre era un naturalista aficionado. Y fuera de la maleta quedaban sus favoritos: Galdós, con sus Episodios nacionales, y Blasco Ibáñez, entre otros, al lado de los libros de ciencias y las fuentes gramaticales del saber. El momento en que Belkis me formuló la pregunta fue coyuntural, pues días más tarde, en 1973, se iniciaría el cambio político en Chile, que tanta repercusión tuvo en Cuba, y luego mi lema, al liberar los pájaros enjaulados en casa de mis primos (ya que no se me permitía tener ningún animal enjaulado, con la excusa de que tenía un primo que era preso político desde 1968), sería `Libertad para Luis Corvalán’, ya que la campaña soviética para su liberación se había puesto en marcha en Cuba hasta que en 1976 lo intercambiaran por el preso político soviético Vladimir Bukovsky. La maleta entonces se convirtió en fuente de recursos históricos de la política internacional de izquierdas (otra metáfora inservible, a menos que seamos capaces de definirla cada vez que la usemos, pero que en este caso creo que se entiende), que eran los únicos folletos y libros que podía conseguir entonces.

Esta maleta de J.D.P., que antes fuera de su padre y de su abuelo, marineros ambos, y que incluso pasó por mi país, me ha llevado a los viajes de la infancia, a la ausencia de maletas de viaje y a la maleta como lugar en que guardamos lo que más preciamos al emprender un viaje. Curiosamente, esta maleta también me lleva a lo que quedó atrás, pues en el momento en que me tocó salir, y lo hice por el puente marítimo Mariel-Cayo Hueso en 1980, no había maleta posible que pudiéramos sacar. Fue un momento en que la nación se dividió entre `ciudadanos’, los que nos íbamos, y `compañeros’, los que se quedaban, muchos de los cuales ahora han pasado a las filas de `ciudadanos’ de un sinfín de países, y por diversos motivos, pues el exilio no es homogéneo ni los cortes recibidos en los procesos transculturales de emigración son iguales para todos, incluso cuando compartimos momentos de salidas masivas, como fue en mi caso, cuando más de 125,000 personas salimos por la misma vía y de forma parecida, por vía marítima, y tras actos de repudio (en los que nos lanzaban huevos, que estaban a diez por un peso y por la libre, es decir, no entraban en la libreta de abastecimiento). Era la despedida que los que se quedaban nos ofrecían por el pecado de disensión o por la traición de irnos del país, aunque las historias individuales son las que llenan los intersticios de la historia. Yo y mi familia salimos de la isla solamente con la ropa que llevábamos puesta y ya incluso sin identificación, pues los carnés de identidad de los mayores ya habían sido confiscados y llegábamos a empezar de nuevo, y sin maleta, pero con un bagaje interno bastante grande.

Mi nuevo encuentro con una maleta fue con una compra a plazos de un juego de maletas en Miami para viajar al Medio Oriente, a través de un intercambio que había con Israel, pero la Primera Guerra del Líbano, en 1982, hizo que los planes no se llevaran a cabo, además de mi condición de refugiado en aquel entonces. Esas maletas tuvieron su primer uso en 1989 para un viaje a España, país al que mi padre volvía de visita por primera vez tras 36 largos años de ausencia. A éstas y otras imágenes me ha transportado mi primer encuentro con esta maleta de J.D.P.

Texto © Omar García-Obregón, 2008

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Parvati Nair, Phoenix Garden, London WC2H 8DG, 13 June 2008

September 18, 2008 · 1 Comment

While travel is really what I suppose my life experience has, in essence, been about, homeland has been a kind of constant preoccupation.

My parents are Indian. I was born in Oslo. I later realised that I was conceived in Cambodia, in Phnom Penh. My father was a diplomat and, in theory, we moved every three years, depending on his postings. You never knew where you were going.

For my parents, home was very clearly India. Not just India. As you know, Indians are very regionally oriented. My family is from the southern tip, from Kerala. There’s a very strong sense of cultural identity. So, their sense of home was very strong.

Barely avoiding the war, while they were expecting me they travelled from Phnom Penh to Laos, I believe; and, from there, to Bangkok. From Bangkok to India. From India they came to London. And, from Newcastle, they took a ship to Norway. By the time I came here to study at university, I had lived in seven countries, and only in India for a short while. A person like me doesn’t really have a sense of national identity. I have always found it very curious that people would be willing to kill themselves for their nation. Nationalism seems odd to me. I agree with Benedict Anderson, that it is a constructed idea.

Because I grew up in an embassy I was surrounded by emblems of the nation. The crest of India was everywhere. That ancient, deep-rooted sense of Indianness that all Indians are supposed to feel, always felt false to me. I was never quite sure what was there behind it all. But, then again, the reality of being Indian hit me when I started crossing borders and frontiers after I got my Indian passport.

Strangely enough, though I have been eligible for a U.K. passport since the age of 21 I resisted applying for one. My Indian passport is one part of my Indianness I have wanted to cling to. I only gave it up two years ago, when India acknowledged its huge diasporic population. The government introduced a new system whereby you could be an Overseas Indian Citizen, which I am now.

In addition to my Overseas Indian passport, I brought a map because it was the one thing we always had at home. An essential item to locate where you might be going next. My father also used to own a globe, which sat on his desk. He still has one.

I also brought an orange, partly because the biggest chunk of my life has been spent in the Mediterranean, between Morocco, Tunisia, and Spain. That’s probably the main reason for my being a Hispanist. I have a sense of affinity with the Mediterranean. Interestingly, whenever I’ve been to Greece or Italy I’ve felt out of place. Though there’s a tangible similarity in colours and sense of place, they’re somehow different. I suppose it’s a question of personal identification. This is probably what lead Mark and me to buy a disused olive oil warehouse in a village south of Granada. The association of oranges and with the Mediterranean has been with me since childhood. Just before going to Morocco, we had lived in Poland during the Communist era. The contrast with the  jewel-like colours of the South was particularly striking, especially the orange trees. Ever since then, I’ve loved citrus fruits and trees. In Poland, it was cabbage every day and you had to queue for hours to get fruit.

The last thing I brought was a photo frame. I collect photo frames and hoard them until I find the right photo. If I see a frame I like and it’s affordable I put it to use or give it away. I like the idea of the photo frame that’s not been filled yet.

©Parvati Nair, 2008

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Regeneration, `Lost and Found’ (9), Parvati Nair, London, June 2008

September 10, 2008 · Leave a Comment

© Geoff Oliver Bugbee (www.geoffbugbee.com)

There is, in fact, a man I remember with a suitcase. I met him on a train. On the Grand Trunk Express, to be precise, some twenty or more years ago — Grand Trunk Express? A coincidence of name? If you know about great railway journeys or have watched television programmes about them, then you might be aware of the Grand Trunk Express. It runs daily between New Delhi and Madras Central Station, or Chennai Central, as it is now known, stopping at 36 stations along the way. The journey famously takes 35 hours and 35 minutes, so that if you left New Delhi at about 8pm this evening, you would reach Madras early in the morning day after tomorrow. The journey is a magnificent one, crossing as you do the length of India, from the north to the south. Most maps don’t really tell you the truth about distances in India. Perhaps because Europe tends to lie at the centre of maps we get here, India seems marginal and small and all bunched up. So it is not till you get there that you realize how vast India really is. In a single journey, the GT Express, as everyone fondly calls it, covers 2186 kilometres, making it one of the longest train journeys in the subcontinent.

I shared a compartment with this man. He slept on the upper bunk opposite me, while I had the use of a lower one. Below him an elderly lady settled in and her son, who slept on the bunk above mine, was, she told me, accompanying her on a pilgrimage to South India. In an unspoken act of chivalry, the men, it seemed, had left the lower bunks to us ladies. For most of the 35 hours, the old lady chanted prayers, stopping only to eat or sleep. Sometimes, she sung them and other times she recited slokas in Sanskrit. Nobody seemed to mind. The blessings she sought might just come by our way too. Her voice melded with the landscape that went coursing by. By mid-morning the day after we left, the faded greens and dust of northern India were giving way to the denser colours of the tropics. The earth began to turn red as we headed south and the trees were thicker and darker green. At one point I fell asleep, only to be woken by a small hand patting my head. Startled, I jumped up. I turned and saw that the hand came in through the open window and belonged to a little child selling sliced mangoes. Sister, buy some, please, she was saying. We had stopped at yet another station. At every station the children crowded at the windows, trying to sell us fruit, matches, cigarettes, pens. The old lady’s son, a young man of thirty or so, kept busy going in and out of the compartment. He would get down at each station and stretch his legs. Once or twice he came in with four cups of very hot, very sweet tea, refusing to take money for the drinks. At mealtimes, when the waiters came by, we ate solemnly, with the knowledge that if we did not eat what we got, we would have to go hungry. As the train lurched along, the old lady smiled at me from time to time. Then she began to speak to me. The lady seemed concerned that I was travelling alone. She asked if I was married. When I said no, she appeared worried. Why not, she asked in a hush voice. Is there any problem? No, I said. Then why not, she insisted. I hesitated. I don’t know, maybe because I haven’t met the right person yet, I finally replied. She found that funny. Like a little girl, she burst into peels of laughter. ‘Child!’ she said, ‘that only happens in cinemas! In real life, God finds us a man and we live with him. So stop looking for the right man and do as God says.’ On the second night, the old lady’s son unpacked a small cassette player and played some music. Kabhie kabhi mere dil me khayal aatha hai … Every Indian, diasporic or desi, knows the song. The old lady sang along. So did her son. The sounds of the flute and the shehnai floated out over the passing fields and villages, song clouds that brought rain with them. Once we had crossed Maharashtra, the rains met us. The monsoon moves northward in India, hitting the south first of all.

Only the man on the bunk above the old lady did not speak at all. He sat up throughout the trip, a suitcase by his side. It was a small brown one, with an old-fashioned padlock on it. He even slept sitting up, a pillow propped up behind his head, the blanket thrown over his huddled knees. The first morning, he removed a key from the inner pocket of his waistcoat and carefully unlocked the suitcase. I was amazed. Inside were sunglasses with an assortment of frames, all in bright colours – light pink, deep pink, indigo, navy blue, lime green, yellow, black, silver, gold and many, many more. There might have been a hundred or more pairs of sunglasses in there. Every now and then the man would remove the pair that he was wearing, put it back in the suitcase and then take out another one and put it on. The garish colours of the frames contrasted with his sombre dress – a grey cotton kurta salwar with a respectable waistcoat on top. In thirty-five hours, he must have done this at least thirty-five times. Maybe more. Below him, the old lady carried blithely on with her prayers, unable to see what he was doing, while I watched them both from my bunk facing them. Of course, I could never really tell where he was looking, as his eyes were always covered by the dark lenses.

We reached Madras Central at about 6am. The Grand Trunk Express has some 25 coaches, all of which are usually so very full that people have even perched perilously on top of the train throughout the journey to hitch a free ride. The crowd was thick and chaotic as we stepped off the train. Everyone seemed to be talking at the same time. I turned to say good-bye to the old lady and her son. ‘May you live long, my child,’ she said. She patted my cheek fondly with her right hand.

The man with the suitcase stepped out behind me and walked past us. He did not look at us or say good-bye. He seemed eager to get going. A porter went running up to him and took the case from him. The porter wore a coiled cloth on his head. Dexterously, he hoisted the suitcase up onto the top of his head and walked quickly behind the man down the length of the platform. I watched them go, until they finally disappeared in the milling crowd.

In holding this suitcase in my hand, that scene from so long ago surfaces unexpectedly. Of what use are memories?

One word alone comes to mind: regeneration.

© Parvati Nair, 2008

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Thampi Lady (Arumana Ammachi Panapillai Amma Srinathi Lakshmi Pilai, Kochamma of the Arumana Ammaveedu, Wife of Visakham Thirumal, Maharajah of Travancore

September 1, 2008 · Leave a Comment

1 September 2008

Dear John,

The understanding I have is that the old aunts dressed very much like this lady here. 

You can see what I mean about the ears! The jewellery she is wearing (necklaces) is traditional and symbolic, indicating her status and wealth. Jewellery and body ornaments are a central aspect of Nair families and a subject of much discussion amongst the women (even now!!!). Unfortunately, Nairs were originally invaders of the south and took ownership of lands — paddy fields, coconut groves, spice fields. Most have a spacious ‘tharavadu,’ or family home often set in the middle of the fields with a small shrine attached. Some of this changed abruptly in 1956, when communism was voted in to the great detriment of many wealthy Nair families! I recall that my grandmother had to dismiss her family goldsmith — a permanent member of the household — for safety’s sake. After that, he had to go and sell his services to shops and families on an ad hoc basis, something he had never done before. It was a very sad goodbye as the two families had been together for at least three generations, probably more. Later, when I was a child, he would come over and work inside the house (as opposed to having his own workplace on the grounds) when we visited and my grandmother wanted something special made for one of us grandchildren. In fact, come to think of it, Kerala was the first place on earth where communism was voted in! Suddenly people were naming their children ‘Lenin’ and calling each other ’sakhav’ or comrade. It didn’t last long. By the 1970s, mass emigration to the Gulf began and people happily embraced the capitalist way of life. Now they’re all off to the US and Canada as well. 

Thanks, John, for opening so many doors via this suitcase.

Un abrazo,
Parvati

[For more information on the Maharajahs of Travancore and Nair women see:  http://tinyurl.com/63qhwa]

[This portrait has been placed in the public domain by the Arumana Ammaveedu Family]

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‘A Nair Lady’ (1928)

September 1, 2008 · Leave a Comment

From a set of watercolours by Rao Bahadur M. V. Dhurandhar. Part of the personal collection of Professor Frances Pritchett (Columbia University). This and other watercolours from the set may be viewed at: http://tinyurl.com/6dcmgp

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In the Soup, 27-28 August 2008

August 28, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Dear John, 

What a lovely name your mother has!

All the best, 

Parvati

 

Dear Parvati, 

It is a nice name but was changed to Mandy, while my father was known as Jimmy and, in my case, Yiannis became John. It was the end of the 1950s and we were all making the effort to stir ourselves into the great North American Melting Pot. 

Abrazos, 

John

 

Dear John, 

Yes, I can well imagine how names might be changed to suit one’s location — my own name gives me endless problems (Pavarotti, Poverty, Pavaaarti, Parbati in Spanish and Barfaati in Arabic, etc!). Things have gotten slightly better since the Harry Potter books came out, as I have a namesake there and more people say my name… though usually wrongly!

Un abrazo, 

Parvati

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